![]() Might want to take a look at the Meg web site. Usually, once I have gone over a new car with rubbing compound (or even 3000 grit) to flatten the surface, I usually can skip that step in following years and start with a heavy polishing compound instead. ![]() ![]() (Lots of choices in between) Then to seal or fill in imperfections you could use a glaze or not, followed by a sealer and/or wax. Then use a finer polishing compound, then possibly the finest which would be a swirl remover. Now Meguires products are a little easier to figure the grit, not by the numbers, but by looking at the red arrow that will give the grit as a relationship of the most course to the most fine.Īt any rate then you would start with a rubbing compound to remove bad oxidation. Clay will just remove some surface impurities but should still be done first. But forget about knife sharpening I finally bought a unit and sharpened my hunting knife I bought in 1957 with some success.Īt any rate, using a 2-3000 grit wet or dry sandpaper would be only for a new finish or blending in overspray. Your knife sharpener may go up to 6000 or the leather belt. I’ll be adding to this chart as I get more statistics, but this chart is a good first stab.īelow you can download an Excel spreadsheet (and modify it if you please) and a pdf of the chart for those readers who aren’t chartered accountants.Well in sandpaper, about the highest grit is 3000. Please keep in mind that these are published statistics I have no way (or desire) to measure the actual particle size or consistency of the media. – Other stuff (diamond paste, green compound, ceramic diamond media) – Man-made stones (silicon carbide and aluminum oxide) So with the help of readers and published statistics, I’ve put together a spreadsheet of common sharpening media and converted them to microns for you. So the smaller the number in microns, the finer the grit. One micron is one-millionth of a meter (hey, I just used the metric system). A micron is a measurement of the diameter of each particle of grit in your stone and paper. Now I don’t want to bore you with a discussion of microns, but here’s the short explanation. The good news is that you can convert all sharpening media to microns and get a better picture of where your sharpening stone or paper is in the continuum from cinderblock (coarse) up to baby’s behind (very fine). Your edge won’t improve when you move to the extra-fine stone. Well good luck, both of these stones are the same grit (22 micron). Here’s an example: Say you want to use a soft Arkansas oilstone as your coarse stone and an extra-fine India (aluminum oxide) stone to finish things up. ![]() Just start with the coarse media and proceed to the fine one.īut if you start mixing brands or systems, you can get in trouble. ![]() If you stick with one system and one brand (say, you use Norton waterstones exclusively), this isn’t a problem. The reason is that sandpaper, waterstones, oilstones, diamond stones and silicon carbide stones all use different systems to tell you how coarse or how fine the material is. (Heck, #1,000-grit sandpaper in the United States isn’t the same as #1,000-grit sandpaper in Europe.) A #1,000-grit waterstone isn’t the same grit as #1,000-grit sandpaper. Your edges get keener but you get more confused about the “grits” used in the process. Once you get serious about sharpening, two things happen. ![]()
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